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Paul Magyar's 2004 RX8 - SCCA TT Max - BENCH RACED BUILD!

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  • Paul Magyar's 2004 RX8 - SCCA TT Max - BENCH RACED BUILD!

    Project Introduction - Dec 12, 2025: As I wrote in his other other build thread here, Paul is an old college buddy, good friend of mine who happens to be a long time autocrosser and an endurance road racer who lives literally around the corner from our shop. He is one of the bad influences that leads me down rabbit holes, looking for rules loopholes.



    Lately he has been looking at SCCA Time Trial Max category classes, making spreadsheets of engines and transmissions that fit various classes. The base chassis kept coming back to an 86 or RX8. When I showed him a "free" 2004 RX8 chassis in October of 2025, he couldn't resist...

    BENCH RACE BUILD

    Bench Racing car builds like this is a fun hobby, but it can lead to expensive experiments! Paul and I have bench raced engine swaps for numerous cars going back many years, and we're actually engine swapping two Vorshlag shop race cars right now based on some of his wacky ideas - our 2013 FRS with a J37 Honda V6 and our 2002 E46 with an S65 4.0L V8 + DCT for Max4.



    Swapping drivetrains - engines and transmissions - is how we achieve goals that OEM combinations cannot otherwise achieve. To meet a ridiculously low minimum weight, or to get an engine that makes great power with a lighter drivetrain but otherwise comes in a terrible car (the 3.7L V6 Honda we have in the FRS is from an SUV).

    But make no mistake - drivetrain swaps are a complete pain in the ass, and 95% of the folks reading this would be better off sticking with the original engines and transmissions a given car comes with. To swap an engine successfully for a race car you have to not only mount the new engine and transmission into the donor chassis, you then have to plumb up the fuel system, cooling system, and wire in a new ECU and have the engine tuned.



    You need to build a custom driveshaft, exhaust system, maybe even custom made exhaust headers. Sometimes you want to pair an engine with a transmission that needs crazy adapters to make them bolt up. Any single one of these tasks can be daunting, but Paul isn't afraid - as he has Vorshlag around the corner, and we're known for making new engine and car combinations.



    If this all sounds extremely difficult - GOOD - that was my point! I've seen modest drivetrain swaps derail and end after a decade of frustration. Luckily, this is Paul's THIRD race car, as he has a running 1995 -Subaru Impreza L autocross car and a 2014 Subaru BRZ endurance race car. The bench racing just got a little out of hand, so he has this car stashed in his shop.



    This RX8 is then 3rd priority for funds, time, and effort. The GC needs a bit of work and is ahead of the RX8 on the To Do List. So is the 2014 BRZ, which is co-owned by 2 other racers, and they have Endurance races scheduled for 2026 - and it is in pieces. Will the RX8 ever run? Who knows! I'm hoping that with a little help, and this forum build thread as motivation, he can make time in his busy schedule to attack this car. It needs to become a rolling chassis first, then weights can be taken and plans can be made.

    FREE CARS ARE NEVER FREE

    If you stick with car building long enough you will be offered free cars - and those are always the trickiest decisions. There's reasons why they are free. This one had no strings attached, as it was a running and driving car a friend bought just for the engine, wiring harness, and some spare parts for his W2W club raced RX8.



    The RX8 chassis (2004-2011) is one of his "dream chassis" because it is fairly easy to swap with anything from a K24 to an LS V8. It starts out fairly light (2850 pounds), has pretty damned good stock suspension (SLA front and multi-link rear), good brakes / ABS, low aero cd, and can fit ~295mm tires under rolled / stock fenders. But the rotary engine was terrible from day one, and this car will NEVER have another spicy Dorito under the hood! The gutless and unreliable rotary is why these cars are so often swapped - because you can find "non running" but complete cars these days for under $2500...



    This one was but a shell, and it needed some Forklift Certified assistance to load onto his flatbed trailer. He built a quick chassis dolly so that it could be rolled off the trailer and stored for a bit, while he gathered parts. Some 2x6" lumber and big 6" diameter casters were put together, then the shop that gave him the car loaded it onto the dolly on the trailer. We found the hood and trunk for this car in a container, and installed those on the spot - along with the rear bumper cover. After we captured 3 stray kittens (long story) we strapped down the chassis and it was ready to roll.



    On October 18th, 2025, it was time to unload this tub. He agreed that leaving it outside under a tarp" was a sure way to ruin the wiring (rats) and interior, so he needed to go into the shop. After we moved a bunch of stuff to make room, it was time to get it in there. We kept the chassis strapped to the dolly, then backed his trailer almost into his shop, and laid down the ramps. If he had a winch on the trailer this next part would have been easy. Without that, he hooked up a tow strap to the car, I guided the dolly wheels and car down the ramps, while he held tension on the strap - wrapped around a pole outside his shop. Down it slid, and it rolled right into the shop. WHEW!



    Now Paul did manage to buy a bunch of pieces that had been pulled off this car to use to put it right back together: All four doors, hood, trunk, both front and rear subframes, one front fender, most of the suspension uprights and control arms, all of the brake calipers, headlights and tail lights, and the dash + center console that were in it. So now he's into this free car for $1000, but its a good, straight, almost complete chassis that only sat outdoors for about 2 months - so it wasn't moldy and trashed. Uncovered, outdoor stored cars do not survive long with any of the interior intact - and for the series/class he is building for, it does need SOME of the interior.



    That same day we loaded up the subframes and bumper beam - parts that might get re-used - and took them to a car wash in Mexico to clean them of 21 years of grime and crude. Those were then stored in his shop until we had time to tackle more of the work.



    Paul is on a severely restricted time schedule due to a massively overdue kitchen remodel - where he is literally making his own cabinets. That is a huge undertaking, but all of his friends are supporting this and not letting him work on his 3 race cars until the kitchen is usable. So I would sneak over to his shop for 20-30 minutes at a time over the next 2 months and we'd install one door. The rears went on first, then the fronts. This happened over the course of two months, sneaking in time he didn't have.



    In November I couldn't stand looking at the filthy engine bay, so I used a bit of WD40 to coat then clean the entire area. My trick is to spray it on liberally, let it soak for 15 minutes, then wipe it all down with a microfiber towel. That gets all of the dirt, grease, grime and gunk away and if there is any surface rust, it protects that also. Protects everything from water, of course. I did this while he worked on cabinets one Saturday.



    In early December (last Saturday) I went by to help on the RX8 while Paul worked on cabinets. It was a slow day for me and I needed a break from entering invoices and reading emails on the weekend. I took the thoroughly packed interior and removed the dash, center console and other interior pieces. Then picked up the 100s of nuts and bolts sitting inside, from when it was disassembled. Sorted those into bits, and put the puzzle together that you see above right - the dash is complete enough for the class he's running, as is the center console.



    Then I vacuumed out the entire interior, which was filthy but cleaned up well. I found all manner of parts hidden inside the car - the clutch pedal, DBW throttle pedal, shifter, and a few other things he didn't know were in the car. The next day Paul unpacked the very packed trunk and found more parts still. So it is close to being ready to reassemble as a roller, which will be a good place to stop and get an initial weight.

    continued below
    Last edited by Fair!; Today, 02:32 PM.
    Terry Fair - www.vorshlag.com
    2018 GT / S550 Dev + 2013 FR-S / 86 Dev + 2011 GT / S197 Dev + C4 Corvette Dev
    EVO X Dev + 2007 Z06 / C6 Dev + BMW E46 Dev + C5 Corvette Dev

  • #2
    continued from above

    QUICK PRIMER ON SCCA MAX CLASSES AND "SAFETY LEVELS"

    Before you start offering up crazy engine options, know this - Paul is building this for SCCA Time Trial Max category classes 4 or 5, and the car will be 100% legal. That series has some pretty austere limits on what you can do to an engine in the lower classes (there are 5 Max classes, with Max1 being the fastest / wildest). Paul wants to run in the slowest (Max5) or next to slowest (Max4) class to save money on the build, consumables, and to end up with a lighter formula to build around.


    Left: A "Tuner 3" class prepped 2023 BRZ. 18x10" wheels, MCS, race seats. Right: Max1 prepped Mustang will full aero, 200TW tires, swapped engine

    SCCA Time Trial has 4 categories of classes: Sport, Tuner, Max and Unlimited. We've built for Tuner, Max and Unlimited, and Max seems to be the sweet sport for "builders" - people willing to go whole hog on the suspension, drivetrain swaps are relatively unlimited, and you can add some functional aero all with 200TW tires as the limit (but currently no width limit in any of the 5 Max classes).
    • SCCA TT Max Rules: Link
    As I have seen first hand, Tuner classes are generally cheaper to prep for "to the limit" than Max, but you need a relatively new car to be competitive in Tuner. Max levels the playing field with enough additional mods so that you can make anything fast - old or new, obscure junk to factory sports car.
    • SCCA TT Safety Rules: Link
    There are also 3 options for "levels of Safety" you can choose for your car in all SCCA time Trial classes. Level 1 Safety is stock 3-point belts and stock seats. You need ALL of the interior in a Max car with Level 1.



    If you go for Level 2 Safety (see above - E36 above left, E46 above right) you need a properly built 4-point roll bar, and fixed racing seats 5+ point belts - and that then allows you to gut the interior behind the roll bar. But you still need a headliner (ahead of the bar), interior panels, carpets (from the front seats forward), door panels, windows, dash, and a heater + wipers.


    There can be alternate materials used on the required interior bits - read this thread for more ideas on that. We have taken our Max5 prepped 1995 M3 to the limits of Level 2 Safety material replacements, but it is still 550 pounds heavy for Max5.



    Level 3 safety (see above) is a fully caged car (that meets SCCA or NASA Club Racing specs) and if the cage "goes into the doors" you can gut the doors, remove the door window glass, and all Level 3 cars can remove all of the interior except the dash. This is a much safer but considerably more expensive level of safety, of course, but it can with the right planning allow for a lighter overall car. This is never a real "street car" at this level, but it is allowed for those that can tow cars to events and want the ultimate in safety on track.



    As of November of 2025, Level 3 cars can now replace the rear door/quarter windows and back window with 3mm or thicker Lexan / Polycarbonate. That saves roughly half the weight of the tempered glass.



    I wrote the letter asking for this back in June to be legal to run in SCCA Max as Level 3 Safety cars. And also because my Max1 already car had Lexan, and it was legal in Max up through 2024. This was the last piece of the puzzle that SCCA needed to add to allow so many W2W cars into Max for Time Trial (most of which have Lexan in these locations).

    Anyway, hopefully that quick and dirty explanation of Max classes and Safety Levels will makes sens.

    PICKING THE RX8 DRIVETRAIN FOR MAX4 OR MAX 5?

    Within the Max category there are 5 classes. The most attractive (read: cheapest to build for and run) is Max5 class, and here's the "formulas" to build around ("unmodified" engine displacements and minimum weights). Weights INCLUDE the driver, and again, let's just throw a 300 number in for Paul to be safe.


    That "2550" pound minimum weight means to make the RX8 competitive (at min weight) he would use the 3.0L engine formula and the car itself would have to get down to 2250 pounds, with Paul driving. That is a REALLY tough weight to meet for this car (an RX8 starts at 2850) without full roll cage and Level 3 Safety. Some might even say that to hit 2250 goal is impossible within the limits of the SCCA Max rules.

    Possible drive trains for Max5 include:
    1. BMW 268 hp "N52" 3.0L DOHC inline-6 (magnesium/aluminum block) with "native" BMW Getrag DCT (7DCI600) from E82/E90 BMW 135i/335i
    2. Honda 257 hp "J30Y1" 3.0L SOHC V6 + an adapted S2 RX8 6-speed manual transmission (very light package, see below)
    3. Ford 250hp "Duratec 30" 3.0L DOHC V6 (Ford Fusion / Escape) + an adapted 8HP 8-speed automatic



    For Max4, the options get a little spicier, but the min weights get heavier. The most attractive formula for Max4 is the 3.0-3.7L engine "B" option. The 2700 pound min weight means a 2400 pound weight for the car, and Paul and I both think that is doable in a max effort build - possibly even a Level 2 Safety build?



    Possible drivetrains for Max4 include:
    1. Honda 300 hp "J37A1" SOHC V6 + S2 RX8 transmission (as seen above in the Vorshlag Max4 FRS)
    2. Nissan 332 hp (350 hp in NISMO 370Z) "VQ37VHR" 3.7L DOHC V6 from 370Z/G37 + adapted 8HP automatic
    3. BMW 302 hp 2.0L Turbo "B48A20T1" + native BMW 8HP automatic -or- S55 BMW DCT (*with higher 3000 lb min weight)
    4. Ford 310 hp 2.3L Ecoboost (Mustang) + adapted 8HP automatic (*with higher 3000 lb min weight)
    Tires and aero will be as big as possible. The car is likely going to run an 18x11" wheel and 295/30R18 200TW tire (Yokohama, Bridgestone, Vitour, etc), similar to the Supra shown below left (18x11" with 295/30R18 Bridgestone RE71RS). The E36 below right has an 18x11" wheel and 315/30R18 Yokohama, and it is a bit squeezed. That took a widebody kit to fit - the 11" wheel and 295mm tire should fit under the RX8 fenders with just a light fender roll. That is one of the main advantages of the RX8 : generous stock fenders with lots of tire room.



    The same tire and aero package would be on the Max5 build, but with Max4 being heavier and more powerful, the latter would have higher consumable costs. And Max4 is looking pretty spicy in this region next year, from two Vorshlag builds in this class.



    What combination makes the most sense to you? Got more ideas - post them up!

    Just remember Max4 and Max5 has very specific engine rules, and "unmodified" long blocks means untouched factory crank / internals / valve springs / pistons / internals - none of this can be modified (it keeps costs down). Engine mods for this pair of classes is very locked down - not an Unlimited series of classes! Intake and exhaust manifolds are wide open, as is oil pump and oil pan. Even the one turbo B48 option shown has to keep the stock turbo and factory "internal" liquid-to-air intercooler (but a secondary external intercooler can be added).

    Thanks for reading!
    Last edited by Fair!; Today, 03:15 PM.
    Terry Fair - www.vorshlag.com
    2018 GT / S550 Dev + 2013 FR-S / 86 Dev + 2011 GT / S197 Dev + C4 Corvette Dev
    EVO X Dev + 2007 Z06 / C6 Dev + BMW E46 Dev + C5 Corvette Dev

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