View Single Post
Unread 12-17-2014, 11:42 AM
Fair!'s Avatar
Fair! Fair! is offline
I blame the internet
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 6,077
Default Re: Vorshlag Scion FR-S LSx Alpha Project

continued from above

Real Engine Install + Clutch/PP/Flywheel

Check out how wide the OEM 2.0L engine above looks in the engine bay compared to the 5.7L V8 shown below

While the headers were being manufactured and test sets sent to us for trial fitting (a 2-3 month process) we used that time to tackle other aspects of this swap.

Mock-up motor was removed and the rebuilt 5.7L aluminum LS1 was put in place

First we wanted to get the final LS1 engine into this car. The final engine choice was chosen by the customer from several choices we offered, from 5.3L aluminum longblocks to 6.2L LS3 crate engine, and included a rebuilt 5.7L LS1 engine from HK Racing Engines that we had on hand for another project. They chose the all aluminum 5.7L, so out came the mock-up motor (which was spending time jumping between the FRS and Miata) and in went the rebuilt 5.7L V8. This 5.7L is all aluminum and should make for great acceleration levels in this 2650-ish pound package.

We just put an identical 5.7L LS1 set-up with our swap headers and full exhaust/catalysts into a customer's turn-key BMW (see above) and it made 344 whp / 364 wtq on pump gas. This is a stone stock 5.7 LS1 engine, built to last 100K miles under a factory warranty, and is not stressed in this 3000 pound BMW. Drives like a beast, but idles at 600 rpm and is quiet as a mouse. We built that car with a double muffler set-up to keep it super quiet, too. An LS3 engine tends to make an extra 50-60 whp over that even in stock form, and there are dozens of tricks to pump up the power beyond stock levels in any LSx. The 340+ whp number this motor will likely achieve in the FR-S is slightly more than the customer wanted, but its hard to make less than that without going to a smaller 4.8L or 5.3L engine.

After consulting with our supplier, then talking with Texas Track Works and the end customer, we sourced an aluminum flywheel and clutch kit for this car. The flywheel is a Fidanza aluminum 1-piece design, which is substantially lighter than the stock dual-mass steel unit at only 12 pounds. I have used these in countless LSx powered vehicles, both street and race cars, and there are no adverse side effects to performance - just the potential for a little more NVH transferred to the cabin. The OEM dual mass flywheels are HEAVY but they do damp a little transmission noise. Its worth nearly 30 pounds and it makes the motor much more responsive, so for most folks this upgrade is a no-brainer. On a track use car it is pretty much a requirement.

A new pilot bearing was installed in the end of the crank then the flywheel was installed to the crank flange with new ARP bolts. The chosen Stage 1 SPEC clutch and pressure plate were aligned to the crank and installed and torque with ARP bolts as well. This should easily handle the torque of this engine while giving a light clutch effort. All of the bolts torqued were paint marked to remind us that they are done, of course.

A variation of our popular and proven Vorshlag T56 Hyd. ThrowOutBearing Kit with remote bleeder was built to fit the FR-S and installed behind the pressure plate and onto the input shaft of the Tremec T56 Magnum XL, first (see below, left). This kit is based around a new hydraulic TOB but the stock hydraulic line bits are replaced with new stainless braided hydraulic lines and new quick-connects made by one of our suppliers to our specs. The OEM quick-connect is a non-standard size, so getting the mating piece for the chassis side isn't possible without buying an OEM piece from GM and scavenging the connector. We also added a remote bleeder hose and bleeder for this car, to make bleeding the clutch hydraulics a breeze within the tight confines of the FR-S tunnel. We have built many of these kits for our BMW swaps, so that was easy for us to create here.

We also took a picture while the transmission was out of the slight tweak that has to happen to the T56 Magnum XL to fit the tunnel without using a hammer. There are two small aluminum "prongs" that need to be ground down (shown above right). There is an excess protrusion on both of these that is made to protect the nearby sensor , but trimming these down flush still keeps the sensor safe from getting banged up during installation and makes room for the FR-S tunnel. The picture above at right shows the lower two of these four protrusions, and the only ones close are the top pair. Just trim those down level with the sensor and you won't have to dimple the transmission tunnel.

Oil Pan + Baffle Kit

The final piece of the drivetrain tackled in this step was the oil pan and associated bits. The GTO (front sump) oil pan we are using for this swap is different than almost all other LSx (rear sump) oil pans, both from the factory or the aftermarket. I showed this before, but not with any real details.

The unusual placement of the front crossmember and "rear steer" placement of the steering rack on the FT86 chassis requires the use of this front sump pan, which is obvious when you see the image above. A more typical rear sump LSx oil pan would never work here. Initially we had notched two little webs at the back of the pan for clearance. After the 1st set of motor mounts were rejected, I had our guys push the engine back another full inch and make the new mounts, to perfect the shifter location as well as try to improve the front to rear weight balance. Now an unmodified GTO oil pan will fit this swap with our production mounts.

We are occasionally asked if our swap parts will work with parts from other companies, or homemade parts. For the most part, the answer is "no". The parts we make are all made to work together, and the tolerances for the whole drivetrain and header package can be pretty tight. The headers fit only if the drivetrain is in the exact placement we use, which our motor mounts and transmission crossmember locate. Most shops that buy our kits buy everything we make, even when they know they could replicate some of the pieces on their own. Why? Because they know that time is money, and the hundreds of hours of development time we invest during these new swaps saves them from having to churn through the same hours to make the same things. Just something to consider - we will sell the various swap pieces individually, of course.

We learned that an oil pan "trap door" style drop-in baffle kit is a good idea on this LS1 V8 BMW

Since I've seen first hand that high cornering loads can lead to oil starvation, I always recommend an Improved Racing oil pan baffle kit for any LSx engine that will see autocross, road course, or aggressive "corner carving" use.

We've had excellent results with these on high horsepower road course builds, and it didn't take much convincing with the Texas Track Works crew to sign off on this upgrade. The GTO oil pan version was installed into the pan we had already acquired and that was the last piece that went onto the rebuilt 5.7L motor before it went in the car.

Using the proper bellhousing to engine bolts, the drivetrain was finally fully assembled for the last time. Olof and Ryan slid it back into the car and bolted it up to the motor mounts and transmission crossmember. That was one of the last steps completed at our old shop - the car was trailered to our new shop in October and we got back to work a few weeks later (moving sucks).

Front Drive Accessories

Once the LS1 was in the car it was time to dress the front of the motor with the engine driven accessories. When you buy a used engine it rarely comes with the accessories and brackets, and even on the rare occasions it does they are almost never the right parts for your application. Most of the new LSx "crate motors" come without the front drive bits as well - so sourcing new brackets and accessories like the alternator and water pump for a V8 swap is common. The costs can really sneak up on you, too.

Between the various GEN III and GEN IV LS-series engines (displacements from 4.8L to 7.0, with both iron and aluminum blocks) there are dozens of different front accessory drive layouts. Some are wide, some are tall, some poke out in front of the engine, and some are compact. Luckily we've worked with virtually all of the cars and trucks that ever came with an LSx V8 and we know what works best in different swaps.

1998-02 "4th gen F-body" (Camaro/Firebird) LS1 engine accessory drive layout is compact and narrow

Traditionally we have used the 1998-2002 Camaro/Firebird LS1 engine accessory drive layout (see above), but some of the brackets are getting harder to source new or used (GM has stopped making one of the brackets) and the pulleys are longer front to back than would fit in this FR-S (about an inch longer than what we chose). They work great in just about any BMW, which comes with a long inline six engine and deep engine bays, but not so on the FR-S. For the longest time this was the only choice for a lot of swaps that had narrow engine bays, but in the past decade many other LS engine accessory variations have popped up, and the FT86's short engine bay pushed us in another direction.

Choosing the right accessories may seem trivial but actually ate up of dozens of hours in research, parts ordering, testing different configurations, chasing down the bolt/stud/nut hardware, machining custom parts and even finding the right length belts. Since we found the right set-up - and its a bit unusual - we will make a "kit" for the FR-S/BRZ LSx swap that includes the alternator, balancer, and water pump, plus all of the necessary brackets, bolts, studs, nuts, pulleys, tensioners, spacers, and other parts needed.

An optional second kit will have all of the parts needed to mount an air conditioning compressor - the compressor, bracket, belts, idlers and bolts. The A/C runs on a separate belt on LS-series engines, so that can be added later without affecting the main serpentine belt routing. We chose a short front-to-back OEM set of LS-engine brackets and accessories for this build because the engine bay was tight in that dimension - this car was was only made to house the small (front-to-back) boxer 4 engine that is only 2 cylinders deep. The width in this engine bay, however, is immense so there was no problem there. The height to the hood is tight, so that was a consideration in our decision as well.

The tricky bit was making an arrangement that could work without a power steering pump, since the FR-S has electric power assist steering (EPAS) built into the factory steering column (other EPAS systems are electric assisted down in the rack and pinion). We have that "no power steering pump" option straightened out with some extra pulleys, some custom machined bits, and a new belt routing that should work great (after half a dozen belts were tested). We've seen this done elsewhere but it took a bit of legwork to track it all down and make the parts needed for this car.

We picked up an SFI balancer form our engine builder along with a massive ARP 12-point crank bolt, which is reusable (unlike the OEM LS engine "torque to yield" bolt, which is a one-use bolt). There is no keyway on the crank, and this is a "neutral end balance" crank and balancer, so you can put the balancer on oriented however you like (there's not even a need for a timing light reference mark - that's all done automatically in the computer). The keyway is cut into the balancer anyway, in case you have a belt driven supercharger, where you would add the slot and a pin or key to the crank - to keep it locked to the balancer. Not needed in this case.

continued below

Last edited by Fair!; 05-12-2017 at 09:13 AM.
Reply With Quote